Makeup & text by Jamie Fawn
STEP 1
Add Clean, Prep and Prime the Face
Begin with a clean, dry face. We like to use Bioderma Sensibio, especially on set. Since it's rinse free, there's no need for water. This will clean and remove any makeup from the face and eyes. Simply soak a cotton round and wipe away makeup.
Next, apply a thin layer of Emboyolisse Emulsion Hydra-Mat Moisturizer and allow it a few minutes to soak in completely.
Using the Bdellium Maestro 947 Small Foundation Brush, apply Mehron Skin Prep to the face. Mehron Skin Prep is ideal for longer lasting makeup, even when sweating due to outdoor elements of humidity and heat. Wait 5 minutes for this to dry before you apply your makeup.
STEP 2
Apply Base Color, Add Bruising and Sunken Eyes Effect
For foundation, use RCMA KJB Complexion Palette and mix a small amount of white with the lighter colors to make your subject look very pale. Apply it with the Bdellium 948 Foundation Brush.
Add bruising to the neck, collar bone, and eye areas to simulate the effects of being attacked. To complete the look, add bruising to the the parts of the skin that are peaking out of the t-shirt.
To create this effect use Mehron Pro Color Ring - Bruise focusing on the colors:
Maize Yellow, Spanish Olive, Burnt Maroon and Bloody Rose.
and the the brightest purple from the Ben Nye FX Color Bruises Wheel.
Apply the bruise colors with a Graftobian Stipple Sponge for a more natural look and blend out the edges with the Morphe M335 Chubby Buffer Brush. When making bruises you'll want to determine the stage of injury your character is in and match the age of the bruise to it. In this look, you will see the stages of bruise coloring beginning with a bright red fresh bruise to an older bruise with a more faded yellow.
To create the sunken eyes use the Ben Nye Professional Wheel Death, specifically using the grey, brown, muted yellow and green colors. Add the brown into the crease of the eye for a sunken look. Then, add greys for an aged, dehydrated look. Add greys, greens, and yellows underneath the eyes in a random pattern. Apply with the Morphe M422 Crescent Shadow Brush.
STEP 3
Add Knife Wounds and Blood
To create knife wounds, use 3rd Degree Silicone Modeling Compound in light flesh tone.
It is extremely important not to cross contaminate any product from jar A into jar B. This will cause the product to set and be unusable. Mix products on a separate surface. Try using the Graftobian metal palette and metal spatula.
Mix the two components with a 1:1 ratio creating enough product to make a small slash wound. You will have about 10 minutes to play with the product. After mixing, transfer the product directly onto the skin and create the desired shape of your cut. Use a cotton swab dipped into 99% alcohol to smooth out the edges so that it is seamless.
Once the product has set, use PPI Skin Illustrator Zombie Palette and Skin Illustrator Activator.
In the deepest parts of the wound, you will apply Skin Illustrator color (black) to add depth to the wound. Because our zombie is slightly aged, we added the color-aged blood along the rest of the inside of the wound and then around the edges. This is achieved using the Ben Nye FDB-6 Petite Filbert Brush.
Next, add Mehron Coagulated Blood Gel with a brush to the slash allowing it to drip down for an oozing effect. We also used the coagulated blood gel to smear on our zombie's shirt.
To give the larger or deeper wounds a more agitated look, add Ben Nye Thick Blood into the deepest areas of the neck, chest, and cheek wounds using a metal spatula to scoop out and place in wounds.
STEP 4
Add Details Around Knife Wounds and Add Contouring
Add contouring to the face to give a more sunken appearance. To achieve this, use the grey and taupe-toned eye shadows from the Ben Nye Glam Palette at the hollow of the cheeks, the temples, the bridge of the nose, sockets of the eyes and jaw line.
Use the Morphe M164 Small Flat Angled Contour Brush and Morphe M403 Small Chisel Brush to contour the large and small areas of the face.
Add some purple under the eye from the Ben Nye CK-1 Bruise Wheel to create more bruises. Next add details around the wounds to give the effects of infection, puss or bruising using the same color wheels to make the bruising. Apply the details using the Mehron Bruise 505-B Wheel with the Ben Nye FDB-6 Petite Filbert Brush.
STEP 5
Add Drying Cracked Effects to the Lips
To finish the look, add more of the Ben Nye Character powder in Ash to the lips for a dehydrated cracked look using the Morphe M433 Pro Firm Blending Brush.
Complete the look by applying a scab to the lips with a small piece of the Ben Nye Thick Blood paste using a metal spatula.
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